It’s a sad fact that the tiny, inoffensive little anchovy is now on the endangered species list. This silvery salt water fish has long been on menus across the world in some form or another and has certainly been around in Europe since the time of the Romans but now is regrettably in decline.

This fish is from the Engraulidae family of salt water fish normally grows to no more than about 9 inches in length (around 20 cm). It has sharp teeth and resembles a mini version of the humble herring. It’s diet consists mainly of plankton and fry from other species of fish.

The anchovy can be found throughout the world but primarily they are found in higher densities in temperate conditions rather than cold or hot. They are most abundant in the Mediterranean (notably the coasts of Italy, France and Spain) but can be found as far afield as North Africa and along the Atlantic coast of Europe as far north as Southern Norway.

The anchovy usually spawns round about October through to March and at least 60 miles (around 100 km) from the shore, close to the surface of the ocean.

Our love of the anchovy in Europe goes way back to the Roman days. It is believed it was a primary ingredient in garum, a fish paste which was used as a condiment, much enjoyed by Romans of all classes. It’s one of the ingredients in Worcestershire sauce and Gentlemen’s Relish and plays a part on the Asian menu in the dipping sauces of nuoc mam and nam pla, but it’s mostly recognised throughout the world as a topping for the common all garden pizza and in pasta!

But anchovies are not only popular here in Europe. They’re eaten in India, normally dried but sometimes fresh. If eaten fresh they’re usually fried or put into spicy curries and are a good source of protein in the Indian diet. In fact throughout the whole of Asia the humble little anchovy is used in fish stocks, sauces and soups.

Unfortunately due to their versatility in our diets we seem to have overlooked the fact that they, just like the tuna and cod, are being exploited and overfished thanks to the wonderful modern invention, the dragnet. Such is their decline here in Europe that The Marine Conservation Society have added this dying breed to the ever increasing list of fish on the endangered list. This has already led to reduced catches off the Atlantic coast in Portugal and the closure of the Biscay Bay fishery. Hopefully this measure isn’t too little too late to save it as it would be a great loss to the world if one of our most versatile little fish was to be driven to total extinction.

“So what”, I can hear many of you utter with scorn, “I don’t like them anyway”, but consider that these small fish not only provide a part of our diet, but are also a vital part of the diets of sea mammals and fish including halibut, rock fish and sharks and also birds such as the pelican and the tern.

I’ve always kept a jar or can of anchovies in brine in my store cupboard but, once my last jar has gone, I shall be knocking that item off my shopping list for a while!